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CHAPTER XXIX


 

THE HIGHWAY

The extreme heat of the night didn't let Jacinto sleep well. The humidity made him wake up at the least noise that broke the nocturnal silence. The prolonged locust song made him toss and turn and turn around in his hammock.

He opened his eyes as the locust finished its music; he heard in the distance a sharp sound, far away distinct. A riffle shot maybe? Some nocturnal hunter perhaps? No it wasn't that. The sound of rifle was so characteristic that he would recognize it. What was that far away explosion? It sounded like the fireworks they used in the religious ceremony or to call the people to assembly, but very, very far away. Attentive he concentrated to listen for another explosion; it didn't take long again far away another detonation followed by several others in series. It sounded like the fireworks in a fiesta. He woke Carmen up. When she reacted, she asked him:

"What's the matter, why did you wake me up?"

"Don't talk, try to listen, a series of thunder claps or fireworks woke me up... I am not sure what it was, I am trying to remember, but I don't know. I don't hear anything now. Be quiet and listen" insisted Jacinto.

The two remained silent, sitting in the hammock, next to each other.

The minutes passed slowly. Nothing, absolutely nothing.

"Maybe you dreamed it" said Carmen.

Jacinto didn't answer. He got up and walked out to the door and stared out into the dark night. Stars covered the sky with a few clouds, the leaves were not moving. Outside it was as damp as inside the house. Jacinto thought that it would rain soon.

"Are you sure you heard something? Wouldn't it be a thunder in the distance?"

There aren't hardly any clouds in the sky, or distant lightning. It can't be that.

Suddenly a new series of distant explosions at intervals of seconds broke the silence of the night.

"Did you hear Carmen?"

"Of course I heard, What is it? She asked a little worried.

"I don't know. It reminds me of the fireworks, what do you think?"

"That is what it sounds like, but where is it coming from?"

They both stood in the door for long time listening to the series of explosions that repeated at almost regular intervals.

Jacinto deduced that it came from the south.

"Let's go back to sleep. Tomorrow we'll see if anybody else heard those explotions or whatever they were". Jacinto said finally.

They went back to bed trying to sleep. Finally, sleep dominated the tension.

When they woke p, in the light of the new day, Jacinto sat up in the hammock. Carmen was livening up the fire by uncovering the coals from the ashes. She was energetically fanning the flames to boil the water for coffee and heat the tortillas for breakfast.

"Have you been up long" asked Jacinto.

"No" answered Carmen. "Wake up the children... did you hear any more explosions?"

"No, I went to sleep... Did you?"

"No, I went to sleep too, and I didn't wake up again"

"Did you hear anything in the night?" He asked the children as they came into the kitchen.

"What?" answered Dol.

Jacinto did not answer, he sat on the low stool and began to eat.

"What, mom" repeated Dol, we didn't hear anything."

"It sounded like thunder in the distance, but we are not sure, it was about midnight" She answered.

Dol looked at his parents curiously. He didn't understand.

After breakfast Jacinto put on his cotton shirt, took his straw hat and left the house. He went to the houses of his other children to ask. He wanted to see if anybody else had heard it.

It was a good while after dawn when he enter his daughter Carmen's hut.

"Is your husband here"

"No, he went to his milpa early - she answered- he is behind in his work, he said he wanted to finish for the burning season"

"He will be back late then - replied the ma'asewaal- almost at dark. Did you hear anything strange last night? -Jacinto continued.

"I didn't, but he told me that at midnight it seemed like it was thundering"

"That is what your mother and I thought, but it wasn't thunder; I am almost sure , nor fire works or distant gun fire, -he paused again while he thought - I am going to see if anybody else in the village heard it, maybe we can clear this up"

The sun was beginning to come over the trees when Jacinto returned to his house.

"I am going to the milpa. Is the pozole ready? I will be back early".

He took the machete that was hanging from a door near one of the main posts and belted it around his waist. He took the permanently loaded shot-gun and two extra shells. Carmen came back with his bag of pozole and a gourd with enough water for the hot morning.

Several people had heard the noises during the night. Almost everybody thought they were dynamite explosions. They thought they were more than 4 leagues away toward the south.

"You know, I think we should go and investigate, in the direction the noise came from there aren't any roads to take out our lumber. I think that is the most probable. I will go with Dol and 3 or 4 more men. Prepare supplies for 2 or 3 days. We will walk toward the road to Vigia Chico, I think the explosions came from there. We have to know what is going on. If it is a lumber company probably they want to take the lumber out of our woods."

"And why are they doing it without telling us?...Haven't you always said that the government cannot take the chicle or lumber without paying us? Asked Carmen.

"That's what we are worried about -answered Jacinto- but we have heard that the lumber companies are getting by the law by saying that woods are federal land; they don't accept that the zone belongs to the Maya people".

"What will you do to stop them, if that is what it is?"

"We will go to Chetumal to report it and demand that they respect the agreements. They will have to pay us for ever meter they cut. That is the deal."

"Don't forget to take something to cover up with during the night. There in the jungle it is cold at night. It is always even in the hot season" - said Carmen- I will put two blankets along with the hammocks"

"Not the hammocks, we will take only the most indispensable because we are going on foot, we will have to cut our path trough the jungle. We will go in the direction of the explosions without detouring."

"What else do you need" asked Carmen.

"Nothing else, pozole, piimo'ob, salted meat. Is there any venison? A little coffee, sugar and water - just figure enough for 2 days. I will take my boot as well as my sandals. I might need them"

"Do you have enough shells? Carmen reminded him.

"With a dozen it will be enough. The other men are also taking their riffles.

Jacinto left for the milpa convinced that after their excursion they would know what it was all about. The next morning they left toward the south.

The noise of the machinery signaled the way to go as they advanced the noise got louder. They had the sensation that from one moment to the other they would get to where the trees were being felled. For moments the rumble of the motors lessened and could hardly be heard.

Jacinto stopped. He raised his hand to indicate to the group that they should be quiet and not to move.

He pointed the way and began to walk followed by the rest. When the encounter was imminent, because they could see the falling thought the thick brush, he stopped again and said.

"Who will go with me? The rest of you stay here until I call you."

Followed by his companion, he walked straight toward the machinery. Very carefully they advanced into the clearing where an enormous machine was butting a big zapote tree.

Jacinto remained alert and amazed at the sight. He didn't say a word.

"The machinist turned his head to back up ad detected the presence of the two maasewalo'ob. It was easy to identify them by the way the Mayas of the region dressed with short pants, cotton shirts and straw hats. He doubted for a moment, then shifting into neutral, he took his cap, which was hanging from a rustic roof of palm leaves and put it on. He drank some water from his canteen and then walked toward the maasewalo'ob who stood waiting for him.

"Buenos dias, señor" Said Jacinto in perfect Spanish.

"Good morning , pal" -answered the machinist- What are you doing here? They told us the nearest village is very far, more than 20 kilometers, isn't that right?.

"We are from Tok'tuunich a town more or less 5 leagues to the north

What are you doing here? - Insisted the machinist.

"A few days ago we began to hear the machinery during the night when there isn't any wind. We came to see what is going on. These are our lands, didn't you know?... What exactly are you doing? Why are you making such a wide road? Wider than the ones they always make to take our lumber?

"We are clearing the land for a highway that goes to the coast to Tulum"-answered the machine operator.

"It is a long way to the coast, maybe 20 leagues if you keep going this way" answered the maasewaa'al pointing to the east.

He turned to his companion and told him in Maya to tell the rest of the men to come.

The machinist, who appeared to be from the North of Mexico, judging by his features and height, didn't understand him.

"What did you tell him, that he went running?"

"I told him to go and tell the rest to get here"

"Are there a lot of you?" - He asked worried and afraid.

"No, there are just five of us" - Answered Jacinto, smiling, then all of them joined him at the edge of the clearin.

"What is your name?"

"Jacinto, and this is my son Dol, the rest are from the village"

"I am Rosendo" said the tractor operator, then asked. "What brought you here?

"We came to see what you were doing in the forest. Who sent you here? I suppose you have a camp near by"

"At two kilometers" -he answered pointing to the West- there is the engineer in charge. He stays there because his pick up truck cannot get to where we are clearing."

"We will go there to see him"

"You'd better hurry if you want to find him"- answered the operator.

The group headed toward the way indicated by the operator. Ten mecates on Jacinto went into the woods followed by his companions to hide their baggage. They came out again carrying only their shotguns and machetes.

They arrived to the camp, with buildings of sticks and palm leaves, and a shed with cardboard roof used as storage for fuel, tools and other merchandise. Their presence attracted the attention of the workers.

Jacinto asked the first person he found about the engineer. The man pointed him out as he approached him.

"Are you the engineer?

He was looking at the group with curiosity.

"Yes I am, What can I do for you?

"We are from Tok'tuunich. We came to find out what you were doing here?

"And who are you?"

"I am the chief of the town"

"The authority?"

"If that's the way you understand it, I am the authority."

The engineer sat down on a barrel without inviting his visitor to sit, and visibly upset, he asked.

"What do you want to know?" Can't you see what we are doing? It's a highway that comes from Carrillo Puerto."

Jacinto listen impassively.

"This highway will connect Carrillo Puerto with Tulum. It is part of a highway that all along the coast will extend north up to in front of Isla Mujeres, communicating the southern part of the territory with the north. We are going very slowly not only because it costs a lot of money and machinery, but because the jungle, the swamps make it very difficult to progress. We need workers from the area because those from other regions get sick too easy.

While Jacinto listened to the engineer's explanation he thought of what this could mean for the people, a road just a few kilometers away that could be easily reached. He remembered the difficult communication through the forest by footpaths that joined them to Tihosuco and Santa Cruz. He thought of the hard journeys in the hot season or under intense downpours, in the slow and difficult transportation of their products, corn and chicle and in the merchandise they got from these towns. He thought that the road joining the highway could be covered in just a few minutes. He was thinking about this when the engineer said again.

"Would any of your people be interested in working with us? The pay is good much more than what you are used to earning. In one day you could make more than you usually make in a week -beside you get your meals- What do you ?"

Jacinto answered.

"I guess I will have to ask the people of my village, when do you need them?

"Tomorrow, if they can get here, we need workers."

"You have and answer in a week"

"Okay, What is your name?"

Jacinto Ek from the town of Tok'tuunich and now with your permission, We'll be going"

The engineer stretched his hand to the maa'sewaal and both shook hands in a friendly manner.

Seconds later Jacinto and his company headed back to their town.

When they arrived a day later having rested all night, Jacinto and his companions separated each going to his own home where they talked about the incident and what they had seen of the highway construction putting special emphasis on the heavy machinery and how quickly the job advanced through the jungle.

In his home, Jacinto commented to Carmen:

"I think the highway that will pass far from our village, will facilitate communication with Santa Cruz and to get to the coast and Tulu'um. We could get fish, easily. They have asked us to work on the job. They say the highway will continue along the coast until it passes in front of Cozumel and Isla Mujeres and there would be communication with Zaci. They plan to make other roads to the ancient ruins, however, it isn't all good. Who knows what could happen; remember when our people started to work for the government credit. They talked about all the advantages. According to the accounts they send us every year we owe more, and not even working double we will be able to pay the debt in many years.

And the bankers themselves tell us not to worry because in the end the government will forgive our debts, and so they keep giving us more money even though it isn't all we sign for. - Not mentioning the bad habit that has spread of getting insurance money for the milpa saying that it didn't produce anything when they were really productive- But, How can we stop it? If the people thinks they are benefited with the money that they get so easily and think they will never have to pay back -You have already seen these problems... fights and arguments that happen during our assemblies amd tje ejido authorities that chosen with the support of the government; and no longer respect their elders. I feel that since then little by little, we have been losing authority. The young people no longer respect us, and rebel and every day is harder to control them. They are leaving the village to go work in other places and they don't want to work in the milpa or plant or do any of the things we have always done. What will happen to those who go to work on the highway to earn in one day what it would take several days to earn in the fields? But I cannot oppose it they will have to decide what it is in their best interest, Won't they?

Carmen listened in silence, thinking in her children and the changes that were coming.

The news spread that same day through the whole town, by the men who had gone with Jacinto on his short trip to the highway under construction. Two days later about twenty ma'asewa'alo'ob, mostly young men, were talking in the door of the house of the Bataab, commenting on the conditions, apparently favorable to work on the road that was under construction. At night, when it was quiet, they heard the noise of the motors in the soft breeze, and sometimes the explosions of the dynamite breaking the rocks. Obviously they were taking advantages of the short break in the rainy season, very soon it will be raining all the time and it will limit the work of land workers and machinists. The people who worked in the pathways that the lumber companies traveled, talked about it.

Jacinto came out to the door and went toward the group, which kept silent as he approached them.

" Well. Tell me what you have decided - said Jacinto- I imagined that you have thought and talked it through- not only among yourselves but also with you families.

"Don Jacinto" -said Teo, one of the oldest ones in the group- we have discussed it very well. We will work for a week every one that it is here, There might be more, but since they don't know how much they will get and how the food is, they would rather wait... We have decided, if the salary is good and the food is always available; the ones who are happy with it will stay, that's what we have decided, we hope that you'll give us advise and back us if necessary"

Jacinto listened to them and then answered:

"Fine, I dont see anything wrong with it, but I only want to remind you not to get into trouble with the other people. Do your work and don't drink, we know all too well that when there is liquor that the "smart" ones sell, they take you pay, fights brake out , sometime ending in machete fights or in shootings, especially if there is marijuana involved.

You know those that have worked in the chicle fields, that a lot of the outsiders especially those from the north smoke grass in order to be able to work harder in the trucks or in wood cutting. Remember this and don't get involved with anybody, especially with the lady cook, you may get a "disease" from her...

Some of the men smiled with roguery, they have heard of the adventures of some and their experience with gonorrhea.

"Well then, -said Jacinto- so be it and may it go well"

  • Who will it be the leader of the group, Don Jacinto?
  • "Whoever all of you elect
  • "We have elected Dol- said Teo
  • I wasn't sure he was going, at least he hasn't asked for permission- Said Jacinto.
  • He has just decided -answered Teo - directing a look at Dol who was standing a few feet away.
  • Dol nodded and asked his father- It is okay with you.
  • I agree, go ahead.

The next day, early in the morning, the group of máasewáal'ob with their bags well tied and their gourds of water, the machetes tied at their waists and shotguns on their shoulders or in their hands the group stood at Jacinto's door.

"Don't worry pa' " said Dol- if anything goes wrong, we'll come back. In about one week or two we'll send somebody with news.

Jacinto put his strong hand on his son's shoulder and minutes later they were out of sight on the path that lead to the south of Tok'tuunich toward the highway under construction.

The next day, the group with Dol at the front, appeared in the work area where the heavy machinery cleared the jungle.

He looked around at the tractor operators, trying to recognise the man whom they had spoken to a few days before. He did not see him and went to the nearest worker with two companions, while the others waited at the edge of the clearing.

The gigantic tractor stopped when the operator saw the group. He lowered the shovel at the same time as he stopped the tractor.

"Rosendo" -shouted Dol. Where can we find him.?

The operator shouted back: "In the Camp, it is his day off"

Dol made a hand sign to the rest of the group to follow him. They walked in single file toward the camp.

When they arrived there, half a league away, they went toward a group of made-shift building, where they saw mosquito-netting which protected the hammocks where some of them were sleeping. Surely those who had worked the night shift.

He didn't see anybody awake and so as not to disturb their rest they walked to the asbestos-roofed long pavilion where the kitchen-dinning room must have been.

The woman in charge and her two assistants, to mature woman and two other young women with foreign look, watch them nonchalantly. They remembered the small group that a couple of days before had been talking with the engineer near the storage shed. They thought they must be the same ones from the comments that the engineer made when he came to eat after the encounter.

"Good morning, Ma'am. Do you know if the engineer is here? We want to talk to him. We have come to work"

The woman in charge answered while she kept on with her task of preparing the food.

"He is not in the camp, but he will be back soon, he went to check some thing back there..."

"Can we rest for a while? Could you give us some water to prepare our "pozole"? We are hungry because we had breakfast very early this morning.

The woman took a large pail and got some water out of the asbestos tank that was nearby.

"Let me -said Dol- as he took the pail, after he fill it, each one dissolved his "paj-k'eyem" in the fresh water.

"Do you want sugar?" -asked the cook

"No , thank you Ma'am, we prefer to drink our "pozole" with salt.

The cook watched how they bit the salt and green chile pepper as they passed it to each other.

"You drink it with salt and chile?" -she thought it was strange.

"Not everybody, some drink it with just salt. It takes away the hunger and thirst" Dol told her.

The cook ,certainly from central Mexico, shook her head and smiled.

When they finished, they thanked her and went to the edge of the clearing, each one looking for the shade under the big trees.

Shortly after, all of them dozed while Dol waited for the engineer.

The next day, the máasewáal'ob were finishing the work of the machinery under the hot sun. They picked up sticks and trunks that had been left on the ground. From dawn until sundown, they worked hard, except for an hour to eat the meal that they were given abundantly. There was ice brought daily from Carrillo Puerto, and as Jacinto had warned them, liquor which some drank sneakily during the rest periods, especially at night. Occasionally on the excuse of going to the latrine, some went out of the camp to smoke marijuana.

Sometimes at night, Dol went out into the forest, carrying a hunting lamp, and got some pieces of local game, a wild turkey sleeping in the trees or some other wild animals. He took them to the cook. She was happy because the other men, usually from other parts of the country, didn't know the woods and, they almost never got anything. In exchange Dol had certain privileges and his men got plenty of food, they especially enjoyed the cheese and butter and the imported canned ham.

They also enjoyed an occasional drink of Jamaican rum and American cigarettes. The engineer gave them several boxes of American cartridges in exchange for the fresh meat.

It was two days before they would have been working two weeks as the group had planned before deciding whether to go back to the village or continue working on the highway. The daily work under the hot sun was exhausting, but he máasewáal'ob were used to hard work of clearing milpas, so they could take the workload. At night after a good dinner and a refreshing bath they slept until next morning.

Sometimes they were awaken by small noisy groups of intoxicated workers, who smoked marijuana and had liquor in the absence of the supervisor.

They had received their first week pay and were think of how they were going to invest the money they had earned with so much sacrifice.

One night, when everybody was resting, to drunken operator, overwrought, under the effects of marijuana was being held by to group of fellow workers less intoxicated than he was.

"Leave alone, sons of a b.... Let me f... those stupid sh.... indians"

His companions stopped him, jumping on him.

After a few minutes of wrestling the man seemed to be appeased. Suddenly he got up, took a piece of metal pipe and headed toward the thatch roof cabin where the máasewáal'ob were sleeping.

Dol and his companions had woken up by the noise and observed the group, lit by an oil lamp.

As he saw the mad drunken man coming toward them he said to his friends:

"Be careful, he is out of control"

He took his machete and in a resolute step he advanced toward the aggressor, who was being followed by the group of friends, who once again tried to hold him down.

Dol stood firmly with the machete on his hand.

"It is over, pal, nothing is going to happen", said one of the men who hold the violent man" He is very drunk, said to Dol.

"He surely had some grass too" added Dol.

Dol turned to his companions as the group led the drunken man away. He didn't say anything anymore. His friends were standing waiting for him. Some were carrying machetes.

" We will go back to our village- said Dol - as soon as we get our pay this weekend. We won't run more risks. My father warned us about this. Nobody said anything and went back to their hammocks to try and get some sleep.

The next day the foreman spoke with Dol. Look "compadre", you have the right to be angry and upset because of what happened last night. They told me what he did, and the boss warned him to throw him out of the camp if he does it again. I don't think you really want to go. Aren't you happy here? Aren't you making good money?

Yes sir, -answered Dol- I am not just worried about last night, for several days now, I have seen them inviting my men to drink , they have even tried to sell them bottles. My father warned them not to drink and he told me that I am responsible for avoiding any trouble.

Can you imagine what would have happened if my people had been drinking?

"That's true, but I assured you....." said the foreman.

"I have thought it over- interrupted Dol- this weekend we will go back to our village.

"Think about it again, friend, I hope you decided to stay"

Saturday afternoon, after receiving their pay, the máasewáal'ob left for their village. Still the engineer, who knew their reasons, tried to convince them.

Dol was respectful but firm. He thanked him and almost as silently as they had come, they disappeared down the path heading north.

At nightfall of the next day, Jacinto saw the group arriving with Dol in the lead. He felt a great relief and his fears disappeared.



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