Isla Mujeres

While the rest of the state of Quintana Roo's coastline is caught up in a frenzy of construction, Isla Mujeres or isla - to the locals, remains a laid back, idyllic getaway. This tiny fish-shaped island (8 km long by 1km wide), with its flat sandy beaches and steep rocky bluffs, continues to enchant both residents and tourist alike. 

 
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For some the magic starts on the ferry as they watch Cancun fade in the distance. For others, it begins when they step off the ferry and see the cheery fishing boats bobbing along the shore.

For years Isla was a quiet fishing village with a culture centered around the sea. In the 1950's it was rediscovered as a vacation spot for Mexicans. American tourists discovered it shortly afterwards, and in the 1960's Isla became a hot destination for hippies and backpackers.

 As Cancun grew so did the Island, and by the late 70's more and more day-trippers were coming over from the mainland, bringing Isla's hotels, restaurant, and shop owners more business than ever. Today it has become a small-scale tourist destination, with boatloads of tourist streaming off the ferries for quick lunches followed by an afternoon on the beach or a day of shopping. Isla has withstood the onslaught, managing to keep its character.

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Isla Mujeres means "Island of Women", though no one remembers who named the island. Many believe it was the ancient Mayans, who used the island as a religious center for worshipping Ixchel, goddess of rainbows, fertility and childbirth. 

Another popular legend has the Spanish conquistador, Hernandez de Córdoba, naming the island when he landed in 1517, blown off course from Cuba. When he and his crew came on shore they saw only women (the men were out fishing) and hundreds of female-shaped clay idols dedicated to Ixchel. 

They also found a temple full of gold objects-which they promptly stole. Still others claim the name is a legacy from pirate days when, like many other Caribbean islands in the 17^th century, isla was a haven for buccaneers and smugglers. These pirates would stash their women on isla before heading out to rob on the high seas.

Isla's most notorious pirate was the Spanish slave trader, Fermín Mundaca. When the British navy began cracking down on slavers, Mundaca settled on the island and fell in love with a local beauty nicknamed "La Trigueña" (THE brunette). In order to woo her, Mundaca built a sprawling estate with verdant tropical gardens.

His courtship, however, failed-"La Trigueña" chose a young islander instead. Mundaca went slowly mad waiting for her to change her mind, watching as she bore the other man's children and settled into a happy life.

WHAT TO DO

The preferred activity is lounging. The perfect place to do this in on Playas Norte (north beach), one of the finest beaches in Quintana Roo. There the turquoise sea is as calm as a lake, and you can wade out for 35 meters and still only be waist-deep in water. With the gentle sea breeze, white sand, cool palm trees, and congenial company at the palapa restaurants, the place is magnetic.

If hunger drives you off the beach, head for the main streets, where there are outdoor cafes offering fresh seafood. Some are housed in the original Caribbean clapboard houses, painted in gay colors. 

In this inner core you will also find stores offering superbly crafted gold and silver jewelry set with fine gem stones (fine jewelry) has become something of a tradition on the island,  alongside the standard tourist items.

In town you can also rent a moped or golf cart to explore the southern end of the island. Only on Isla would traveling around in a golf cart be feasible. The laid back drivers on the Island are quite tolerant of these silly little vehicles. They actually smile and wave as they pass the golf carts. Giddy tourists wave back.

Traveling in a golf cart is a perfect way to explore the south end of the island. On the southwestern side of Isla there are the lovely beaches of Playa Paraiso (Paradise Beach) and Playa Lancheros (boatmen's beach). Both have long stretches of sand and great spots for lunch or for shopping at the small stands selling local handicrafts, souvenirs, and T-shirts.

Back in its wilder days Isla's southern beaches was places where locals swam and rode on the backs of giant sea turtles. Today, their numbers dwindling, the turtles are a protected species -off limits to humans. 

But they can be visited up the road at the Turtle Farm. Visitors can see the turtles of various ages in outdoor tanks or in the aquarium inside.

Whether you explore the island, lounge on the beach or shop for hours, one day on Isla is never enough. And that too is part of its magic.